Ikat, or ikkat, is a dyeing technique used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric.
Magic Combination of Skills & Creativity
Ikat fabric-making is a unique and beautiful process when compared to our modern day printing and weaving. Some ikats are made by dyeing the weft threads (the threads that are actually woven in and out of the warp threads), some by dyeing the warp threads (the fixed threads that are attached to the loom), and some by dyeing both, a technique known as double ikat. It’s like an aesthetic logic puzzle, and just thinking about it can make your head hurt. The intricacy of the double ikat technique requires the most skilled artisans, thus it is only produced in India, Japan & Indonesia where the craft has existed for millennia. It requires exquisite tension control. A characteristic of ikat textiles is an apparent ‘blurriness’ to the design. It is a result of extreme difficulty that the weaver has in lining up the dyed yarns so that the pattern comes out perfectly in the finished cloth. The double ikat known as ‘patola’, made in Patan, Gujarat is the most complicated. Made using fine silk yarns and many colours, it is definitely an extraordinary achievement in the textile arts.
Ikat and India
Ikat is produced in many traditional textile centres around the world. However, one might ask why Indian ikat is so much in demand globally? It’s because in India, each region has evolved its own style of dyeing and weaving of the yarns. Other reasons being the valuable experience and expertise techniques of the master weavers here. Slowly and gradually, Indian Ikat became known for its use of fine materials and production improvements. Sources of Ikat patterns dating back to 7th Century are available in India which is made into stunning sarees and kurtas with numerous patterns.
In India, it has developed into a prominent handloom textile art in three major regions – Gujarat, Odisha and Andhra Pradesh/Telangana. Each of the regions have developed their own style of Ikkat weaving – each distinct in its own way. Andhra Pradesh is the birth place of Indian ikat. Telia Rumal is the most distinct ikat of Andhra Pradesh which is characterised by the obscure process of treating the yarn with a special oil to give the fabric a characteristic sheen.
Few of the warp ikat patterns are primarily made in Odisha, where it is also called as bandha. Designs often have animal motifs and curvilinear patterns, while the yarns used are really fine. Bargarh, Sambalpur and the districts of Sonepur and Boudh are few of the weaving centres of Odisha.
Patan in Gujarat is popular for the silk ikat weaving which is popularly known as Patola. Its designs have minute details and are extremely rare as it takes great scale skill and meticulous detail in weaving. Simple patterns take days while the complex ones can go on for months.
Ikat in Modern Times
Ikat is also used to create stunning home décor which includes cushion covers, carpets, bed sheets and more. It is popular on accessories like jewellery and bags too. Well-fitted tunics and kurtas looks amazing with ikat fabric. Even in the modern age, ikat art continues to hold its own charm.
